 The FFR body can be lifted...  The FFR body can be lifted and positioned by two people as long as there&8217s a support between the cockpit centers to prevent stress cracks in the lower doorjambs. Our body was prepped and painted off the chassis, so care was taken in the following steps to protect against damage to the shiny side. |
 The replica body is fastened...  The replica body is fastened to the frame at 32 points on the flat, hidden areas of the body. The quick jack bumpers are split sleeve compression mounts that can be utilized to jack up the car. The aluminum trunk panel is laser-cut to provide accurate holes for the sleeves to be mounted to the frame. |
 The windshield accounts for...  The windshield accounts for nearly 10 percent of the kit price, so install it carefully. |
 Lower the windshield assembly...  Lower the windshield assembly into the body slots, placing the cover plates over the holes. The frame fits with about a 1/8-inch gap between the body and frame. Once in place, the windshield bolts directly to the frame under the dash, not to the body. |
 Keep the protective paper...  Keep the protective paper on the Lucite acrylic wind wings during assembly to prevent scratches. |
 Attach the mounting hardware...  Attach the mounting hardware to the wings and use Loctite to keep the hardware from falling out due to vibration. Then attach the units to the windshield-frame uprights. |
 Three laser-cut aluminum duct...  Three laser-cut aluminum duct panels, which not only finish off the nose but funnel air to the radiator, need to be installed. |
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 Holes for the lights are marked...  Holes for the lights are marked in the mold. FFR uses Lucas lights, proving that their reputation for being the "prince of darkness" isn't accurate thanks to the donor Mustang's wiring, which keeps them working correctly. |
 The original polished Aston...  The original polished Aston 31/2-inch roller gas cap is a beautiful and authentic piece designed to be used with the Mustang cap underneath, so it actually holds fuel in the tank. |
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 This car will be fit with...  This car will be fit with the new hood hinges instead of the racing pins. The hinges are available as retrofit for older FFR models. The hinges, which mount to the body and frame for added support, can be mounted several ways. Shown here is the 1/16-inch perimeter plate riveted and bonded with silicone to the hood. Holding down the hood is a traditional locking handle with a cam wedge. |
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 FFR's trunk hinges bolt through...  FFR's trunk hinges bolt through to the frame and serve as another clamping body mount. The rear latch and striker are mounted with an adjustable tube spacer to the frame, which also acts as a body mount. |
 Prepping the cockpit for its...  Prepping the cockpit for its interior components includes tying up loose ends under the dash, making sure things are working, and cleaning the cockpit to make way for the carpeting. |
 Position the supplied carpet...  Position the supplied carpet pieces to make sure everything fits. Spray 3M Super Trim adhesive to both the backside of the carpet and the cockpit surface and allow it to dry for 30 seconds. |
 Press the two together with...  Press the two together with a smoothing action. |
 Install the five-point harness...  Install the five-point harness to the welded brackets on the frame with 1/2-inch fasteners. |
 Position the bucket seats...  Position the bucket seats and bolt them in place. |
 The finished interior has...  The finished interior has a serious feel to it. |
 Position the door against...  Position the door against the body and then slowly tighten the hinge bolts. Watch the gaps around the door as you tighten, and place shims behind the hinge plate to position the door properly. With four locations to shim, virtually all the dimensions are adjustable. Take your time and do this step carefully. The hinge is held in place by sliding pins with top retainers. |
 Leather door straps help preserve...  Leather door straps help preserve our fine paint job, and their authentic look is just a bonus. |
 The rollbar was chromed and...  The rollbar was chromed and bolted in place. The look of shiny aluminum precludes the need to carpet the inner trunk surfaces. |
 The tri-wing knock-offs use...  The tri-wing knock-offs use two O-rings that form a press fit. Safety wire isn't necessary with these wheels. The final step includes checking all the nuts and bolts, the cotter pins, and the like on the car to ensure a safe ride. |
 The maiden voyage of our car...  The maiden voyage of our car was to the Carlisle Import/Kit Replicar Nationals where it strutted its stuff beautifully amid a roomful of exotic machinery. KC |
We last left our Factory Five Racing (FFR) Cobra replica buildup with a driveable chassis and ready to receive the body, interior, and trim. In this installment we'll cover mounting the body to the finished chassis, adding the soft goods to the interior, and attaching the windshield, lights, gas cap, hood, doors, and rollbar. In short, we'll finish the car just in time to head for its first car show.
To recap, FFR offers a Cobra replica kit designed and engineered to use a single donor car--the 5.0 Mustang. The kit sells for $9,900, and aside from the multitude of donor car parts, it comes very complete and doesn't require you to add much more to finish the vehicle. FFR has documented numerous owners who have built the replica at home for less than $15,000.
Keep in mind that the stories we've done on the FFR buildup are not intended to serve as a build manual. Due to space limitations, we're covering just the most important steps involved in finishing the car. Factory Five has a very comprehensive manual to guide anyone through the entire assembly processes.
Our final installment of the FFR build in the next issue will include performance numbers, driving impressions, and the complete cost breakdown of what it took to build this handsome replica snake.