1959 Devin SS Rollbar Installation - On A Roll

The brace was bent to shape.

A tubing notcher cut a curve into the top of the brace tubing so that it would fit tightly around the roll bar.

A grinder was used to fine-tune the notch. A close fit is essential for safety and looks.

A pilot hole was drilled where the bottom of the brace would be bolted between two flanges (which would be welded to a rear frame member).

A larger hole was drilled around the pilot hole for a short length of spacer tubing that prevents the brace from collapsing when it is tightened into place.

Here is the bottom of the brace with its thick flanges tacked into place.

The brace was TIG welded to the top of the roll bar.

Holes were cut in the body for the bar to fit through. You can use rubber gaskets around these if you wish.

The trunk lid was notched to clear the bar. Since the trunk lid bayonets off on the Devin, this is an easy fix.

Here is the finished bar. By removing the retaining bolts, the bar can be lifted straight out of the car. Some race groups may require a cross-brace in a bar this wide.

Checking the bar height shows plenty of helmet clearance under the bar. Success!

Here is the finished chassis with the roll bar intact and colormatched (flat black) with the rest of the chassis. If you decide to plate your roll bar, take it to an expert familiar with plating roll bars, as someone who isn't may induce metal fatigue, which will do more damage than good.