1934 Ford Roadster - The Mating Season

With the tapered edge toward the transmission's base, Mark slid the hydraulic throwout bearing's adjustment sleeve on the trans' input shaft.

Being careful not to cross-thread, the author screwed the McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing onto the aluminum adjustment sleeve.

Taking the measurement from the front of the transmission to the front of the hydraulic throwout bearing, we arrived at 2 13/16 inches. Subtracting this measurement (2 13/16 inches = 2.812) from the clutch fingers to the bellhouse face measurement (3.75 inches or 3 12/16 inches = 3.75) yielded 15/16 of an inch (.938), or not quite 1 inch. According to the instructions, the throwout bearing position was out of tolerance. We needed a spacer. The tolerance needed to be within the .100-inch-.300-inch range.

Alas, our Kiwi mate and experienced mechanic had to return to New Zealand. We obtained a .700-inch spacer from McLeod, installed it in front of the clutch release bearing (hydraulic throwout bearing), and were within tolerance (.238-inch). Another buddy, Ben, Ford mechanic for more than 12 years, confirmed the measurement.

Ben and my cousin Kenny Smith talked dad and me into utilizing a steel flywheel as opposed to an aluminum flywheel. They explained that the steel flywheel would provide much better drivability in a light car with such a high-performance engine. Ben removed the bellhouse. Using the steel flywheel the engine builder balanced and dyno'ed the engine with, Ben and Ken redid the work Mark and I had done.

Prior to bolting the McLeod scattershield onto the back of the engine, Ben tapped the appropriate-sized McLeod collar or ring onto the Tremec TKO600 input shaft housing.

Ken and Ben attached the bellhouse to the trans.

With a 1/2-inch hand wrench, Kenny tightened the four Grade 8 transmission nuts to the bellhouse bolts.

Ken held the Smeding Performance 427 stroker engine in the air with the Summit Racing 2-ton engine hoist while Ben eased the TKO600 trans' 26-spline input shaft into the clutch opening. Thanks to the clutch alignment tool, the input shaft went in with just a bit of persuasion.

Ben installed the Grade 8 bellhouse to the engine bolts with the lock washers on so as not to lose the washers. He didn't use Loctite since we'll be taking the engine/trans back apart several more times before final installation.

To prevent possible interference with the Steve's Auto Restorations '33/'34 roadster pickup body's trans tunnel, Kenny removed the Tremec shifter and taped up the opening with duct tape.

Builder and off-road racer of first-generation Ford Broncos, Kenny knows his way around a Ford powerplant. He fastened the engine mounts onto the engine's sides.

While Ben drove the Summit Racing 2-ton engine hoist into position, my dad and my cousin Kenny guided the engine/transmission toward its new home. We're so excited by this auspicious occasion that we can't keep from grinning.

Kenny and dad guided the Tremec TKO600 trans tailshaft under the custom tubular crossmember.

Notice the engine mount to chassis bolt that's sticking out on the passenger side? Ben realized we'd need to bore out the chassis mount holes a tad to fit the ARP stainless steel chassis mount fasteners.

With the engine/trans held by the Summit Racing engine hoist, Ben bored the holes out on the chassis mounts with an electric corded drill.

To the right of my father, you can see the engine-to-frame mount bolts are now in place. Using the front mount holes as a reference point, Dad used masking tape and a magic marker to mark where to position the roadster pickup body on the frame.

The Steve's Auto Restorations all-steel '33/'34 Ford roadster pickup body is so light, Kenny and Ben were able to lift it and position it on the SAC Hot Rod Products '33/'34 Ford fully boxed custom chassis.

From any perspective, the DreamSmith Drop Top roadster pickup is becoming a reality. Watch for future tech stories on the emergence of the '34 Ford/prehistoric Cobra roadster pickup in upcoming issues of the magazine!