1. This is what our crated...
1. This is what our crated 502ci big-block Chevy engine looked like when it was delivered. It's a complete long-block assembly with an aluminum intake manifold.
2. These are the parts that...
2. These are the parts that will be used on the 502ci engine to get it ready to power the vehicle. The items we selected were for performance and appearance.
3. First, we bolted the engine...
3. First, we bolted the engine to the engine stand, then removed the stock water pump, intake manifold, and valve covers. Using 2-inch masking tape, we covered up the engine valley and heads. We placed a new intake gasket to the intake manifold, marked the outer manifold shape onto it, and trimmed the excess gasket material away with tin snips. Then we placed the newly trimmed gasket onto the taped cylinder head and traced the shape.
4. Using a razor blade, we...
4. Using a razor blade, we followed the gasket pattern and peeled away the tape in the areas where we wanted the paint to stick. This way, the gasket won't be seen when the engine is assembled, and the entire engine will be painted except for the gasketed surface. The same procedure works well with all gasketed items.
5. Since we are changing from...
5. Since we are changing from the stock oil pan to a Milodon, the oil pump and pickup needed to be changed because the new pan was deeper.
6. When we painted the engine,...
6. When we painted the engine, we used a piece of cardboard as a paint shield to prevent paint from going where it wasn’t needed. Since this engine was being budget-detailed, we painted the block with VHT orange engine enamel, which is designed to withstand high engine temperatures. It goes on with a nice high-gloss finish and covers very well. It&8217s also very easy to touch-up when necessary.
7. The stock valve covers...
7. The stock valve covers on the engine had a nice design but were painted black, so we had the aluminum valve covers polished. We also had the aluminum intake polished. Since, we wanted to detail the valve covers, we started by masking off the areas that weren&8217t going to be detail-painted.
8. We cleaned and painted...
8. We cleaned and painted the unmasked area with VHT engine enamel and allowed the paint to tack up slightly.
9. Using a lacquer thinner-moistened...
9. Using a lacquer thinner-moistened rag wrapped around a stick, we simply wiped off the paint where we didn't want it. This is much easier than masking off all those fins. This was done immediately after painting while the paint was still tacky. We didn't use a rag with a lot of nap in it because we didn't want fabric lint in the wet paint.
10. We ran the vacuum lines...
10. We ran the vacuum lines and fuel lines in hard stainless steel then polished them to a high gloss.
11. Another neat trick is...
11. Another neat trick is to run your spark plug wires through a loom, such as the one we got from Zoops. It can be detailed to match. Using an Adel clamp at the back of the head will keep the spark plug wires tight when running to the distributor.
12. We had Andrews Powder...
12. We had Andrews Powder Coating handle the serpentine pulleys, brackets and pump. They were done in what is called a chrome finish (looks like polished aluminum) and gloss black.
13. This was a rather simple...
13. This was a rather simple detail job that looks like it took a lot more effort and cost a lot more than it did. Remember, take your time and make the investment, because it’s just one more thing that will make your car look a little better than the next fellow&8217s.
Ever wonder how the pros get their engines looking so good? It's not as difficult or expensive as you would think. These basic tips can help you start detailing with the best of them, and the procedures will also work well on other parts of your project vehicle. We asked the guys at Precision Street Rods & Machines to show you some of their detailing tricks. Remember that patience is a virtue--speed doesn't count when you are detailing an engine. They also kept the really expensive things like chrome-plating to a minimum, making the detailing very affordable.
This engine is going into a classic street rod, so we had plenty of room to work with. Since the crate engine comes partially complete, here are a few of the parts that we will be installing on this engine to improve the performance and appearance. We purchased an Edelbrock carburetor and Billet Specialties air cleaner to top off the engine. A Mallory 501 Unilite distributor conversion kit; Hooker headers; a complete factory serpentine belt system including the water pump, pulleys, brackets, compressor and alternator from a '97 Chevrolet truck. A Milodon oil pan, pump, and pickup complete the bottom end of the engine. In addition to the engine, we selected a B&M converter and transmission to finish the drivetrain.